One time through Africa
By motorbike from Munich to Cape Town


Reports

 

TANZANIA

24.7.2006- Entry and first overnight stay

The entrance to Tanzania was done in one hour. At the border there were the usual suspects like moneychanger, insurancedealer. The paperworks were done fast and didn't cost anything. The guys who tried to sell an insurance to us ment, that it is irresponsible and dangerous driving without one. They really were angry and shouted at us, becaus we didn't buyu one. But with this method nobody will sell us anything. Besides it is not necessary to have one as a tourist. The begging and pushing Masai-jewelryseller were also very annoying. The area at the next kilometers was - apart from two griraffes at the roadside - very grey and desolate. Short before Arusha it became more green. In Arusha we indulged ourselfs a very good meal at a indish restaurant since a long time. After that we went to the cmapground and relaxed the rest of the day.

25.7.2006 Arusha
Today we have a look at Arusha. Some "city sightseing". Unfortunately it is not a very nice town. Here at the streets are a lot of agents from safari contractors who accost you at every corner. At one agent we asked how much it will be: only 500 US$ for three days. But hi didn't really know what is include. We think that the entrance fees for the park are extra. When the next agents didn't leave us alone, Rita shouted that they should leave us alone - this did affect. ;-)

The market also was not as asvertised at the guidebook. It was roofed over and in order to that very dark. There were also always some "helpers" who pestered us and told us at every stall what to buy or told us what is a nice motive to take a picture of. We bought a big wooden spoon and Rita swung it angrily...so it was nothing with the above mentioned "city sightseing" and we returned to the campground.

26. – 29.7.2006 Marangu and Usambara-mountains
From Arusha we drove via Moshi to Marangu hoping to catch sight of the Kilimanjaro. But the mountain always was cloaked in clouds. Besides that is was going to be very cold (~12º celcius) and started raining heavily during the night. Here we also experienced that our tent is not rainproof (the first right thing what we were told at the Därr-shop in Munich...). But it is very stable. During the night several fruits of the avocadtree fell onto our tent.
The next morning there was nothing to see from Africas highest mountian. So we hit the road direction Usambara-mountains. The route was very windy and we saw a lot of fields with agaves. At a winding road we came to Soni. Because of the still bad and nasty weather we allowed us the extravagancy of a tnted banda (a fixed tent which is roofe and also has a loo and a shower). Since a long time a proper bed and a fluffy pillow - hmmm a boon.
We paused for one day. In the only two hours without rain we went to Soni and Lushoto. You're not missing much visiting these villages, but the landscape is very beautiful.
At the 29th we went to Tanga. This City is at sealevel and therefore it was going to be hot again. Tanga is a typically African City at the Indian ocean. We spent one night over there, before we retunred to Kenia for the third and last time.

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KENYA


30.7. - 5.8.2006, Some days at the beach and visiting PLAN International
After a night with a rainstorm - but now is no rainseason - we startet from Tanga to Kenya, direction Mombasa. Luckiliy we sealed the afternoon before the sewings of the outer tent with silicone. So we stayed dry. The piste to Kenya was a bit wet, so we checked it out before. The first few kilometers were not so slippery and we dared to roll the 69 km to the border. It went well. Immigration at both sides was super fast. The fastest custom clearence since we started our tour! The road after the borderpost was tared and in a good condition, so we went unhurriedly to Tiwi-beach. A nice place! Lawn for the tents and a white sandbeach with palms at the beach. And turquise-blue water. Even Chri was enthusiastic. Here we stayed almost one week, but did not only laze around at the beach.
One day we went to Mombasa. The Jesus-Fort was nice, even with an quite high entrance fee (800 Ksh ~ 11 US$). The rest of Mombasa is very run-down. One reason is the high humidity. And unfortunately there was nothing to see from the Indian immigrants and their restaurants. So we had to eat chips again.
At the 3rd of august 2006 we visited the PLAN-bureau at Kwale and again had a very warm welcome. Because of the matter that we came relatively short dated, there was no car for visiting the project areas. So we "unfortunately" had to take our own motorbike. A employeeof PLAN was riding a Yamaha DT 175 ahead and we followed with our bike.. This wasn't only fun for us! :-) At every place we were the attraction for the kids and the adults. We visited two schools and a 'village bank' - everything again very interesting and sensful projects, which convinced us of the very good job PLAN is doing. A very nice morning.
From Chri's godmother we heared of another project: a from a German woman founded and managed orphanage. We visited this unannounced on friday. A nice project, where ~18 children can have a awesome childhood. But in our eyes the children are not well prepared for the real life in Kenya. After a last night we went back to Tanzania t the 5th of august 2006


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Tanzania the 2nd


5. + 6.8.02, Immigration and beach
Also this border was fast and on the same, and now dry, piste like some days ago we went back to Tanga. From there we drove another 30 piste-km to the next beach. (Peponi-Beach-Resort) - we have heard that this should be very nice. The camping was fine, but the beach was rather moderate nice. Anyhow we had at the 6th of august a resting day. A walk at the beach, a jump into the pool and the day was over.

7. - 11.8.2006, Ride to and days at Dar Es Salaam
The stretch was only boring and long. ~400 km through bushland. Our butts did hurt very much, but at the evening at Kipipeo Beach Camp we were rewarded with a very tasty chick-pa-burger. The next day we stayed at the beach, which is very nice. Unfortunately it rained avery once a while, but we dared to go into the water. The following day we went to Dar, to get also a picture of this city. Well - again an African large city without flair.
at the 10th of august the visit of PLAN-Dar Es Salaam was on the program. Here was also a very nice welcome. We went with an employee of PLAN to 3 different prjects: a school, a hospital and a well. At the school they had their tests, but we were allowed to visit a class. Whenn we entered the classroom all students stood up and we were saluted in a choir with 'Good morning' and 'Welcome visitors'. That's the way it has to be! :-)

11. - 17.8.2006, The last days at Tanzania
Morogoro - Iringa - Mbeya
The first day we went from Dar at bad weather (cold and rain) - we were actually wearing our raingear - almost to Morogoro. The stretch was boring but we were lucky, that the crazy bus drivers were not on the road this day. Because it was really cold, we took a hotel for this night. The joy to sleep in a real bed changed to resentment, because they were playing very loud music until 3 am in the morning.
The next morning started with sunshine and we rolled direction Iringa. We did cross the Mikuni Natinal Park, because the main road is going through it. We wished to see crossing elefants and a pride of lions. The lions were not seen and the elos preferred to stay in the shade at the roadside. It was a very nice experience. After the Mikuni NP we crossed the Baobab Valley. There are hundreds of these trees. Without greenery they look really spooky. The following three bloody cold nights we spent at the Riverside Camping near Iringa. We visited this town on monday. But sadly there was no house in colonial style and no interesting market like it is written at our guidebook. But we did get some tasty ingredients for our breakfast: mangochutney, home made jam andalmost real semmeln. So it was worth to come here.
Not so the next stop. We went to the Kisolanze Farmhouse - the service was very bad. The last day at Tanzania we went 320 km to Mbeya. Rita cought a cold, so we decided to stay this night at a hotel. We were lucky, because it was very cold again. Approximately 4 degree Celsius.
17.8.06
After a very 'rich' breakfast (2 slice of white bread, 1 small omeletteand 1 cup of tea per person) we tried to get to the Worlds End View Point. So we drove ~30 km on a bad piste into the mountain. We enjoyed some beautiful views, but did not find the view point.
Than we headed to the direction of the Malawi border. The landscape was amazing: green hills an a winding road. The dispatch at the Tanzanian side was again very fast and without hassles. And than we entered at the 13th country.

FAZIT TANZANIA
RITA: What we have seen from this country is in total boring. The places which are maybe interesting, e.g. national parks are so much to expensive and would have gone beyondour budget. The people are normal friendly - for me not a reason to come again.

Chri: The landscapes of this country are not so good. At least not a these places, we have been. It's a pitty, that the Kili was hidden in clouds but this is not the fault of Tanzania. The national parks and also the rest of the country is much to expensive for what you get. One time is enough at this country.

 

Pictures - go to the link at the mainpage