One time through Africa
By motorbike from Munich to Cape Town


Reports

 

MALAWI

17.8.06

The customs official of Malawi didn't make trouble, the carnet was stamped quickly and we bought an insurance for the bike. This costs 20 US$. Only stamping the passports took a little longer, because shortly before us a overlander truck arrived. These overlanders are quite often at Eastern and Southern Africa. This are special trucks with space for 15-30 persons and these tours last from 30 days up to one year at Africa. However - we now arrived Malawi.
The first kilometers were very comfy, because it is almost no traffic. Chri is also already used to left-hand traffic. After a short time we arrived the Lake Malawi, which is a big part of the country's surface and it is 470 m over sea level. Unfortunately bilharzia is present at the lake so we're not sure to go for a swim or not. The first night we stayed at a camping which was nice but it gave the impression to be unfinished. A shower- and toiletblock was totally open so that you could have a chat with the neighbour while sitting at the toiliet or having a shower. But we were the only guests...
This night we slept very well, we were lulled by the sound of the waves from the lake. It sounded like the sea.

18. - 21.8.2006
The next few days we spent quite relaxed at the lake. The first day we only drove till Chitimba. During the afternoon we strolled along the seaside - it looks like being at the ocean. White sand, rushing of waves, partly palm trees at the road side…. We surveyed the log-boats and admired the women, who came to the lake to get water. No kidding, they carry without any problem up to 20 l water on their head. Amazing. The following day again brought us several turnovers with the bike. Again on the left side. We planned to drive up to Livingstonia, that means 750 m altitude difference including 22 hairpin curves had to be overcome. One of those curves unfortunately again was to tight and covered with big and small gravel, so that we skidded away and fell on the side. This time there was a bad noise: The left case now is not only dented but also has cracks. We only can hope, that we do not catch any more showers…. After Chri once more turned over we decided to leave Livingstonia aside and turned back to the main road. Well, at least we had a very nice view onto the lake. The tour then led through hilly back-country till Mzuzu and then back to the lake. The passage from Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay was gorgeous, many curves (not to tight), green hills wide views! In Nkhata Bay we afforded a chalet, directly located at the lake. Very simple but enough for two nights. The Sunday we lazed around and enjoyed the nice view at the lake. But we did not dare to jump into the lake.
We already stayed for 3 days in this country when we realized, that there is a time difference between Tanzania and Malawi. Malawi is one hour behind…. We already were wondering in the morning that sunrise here is that late, about 7:15 am ?! We learned about the time difference, when we ordered something to eat for 6:30 pm and it did not show up. No wonder, it still was 5:30 pm!!!
On the 21. of August we drove along the “Lake side route” from Nkhata Bay to Nhkotakota, always towards south. On this route unfortunately we had no view to the lake and in general it was quite boring to ride along. For the time being the last night at the lake we spent underneath of Nhkotakota. Actually a nice campground, but unfinished and still under construction. We thought they had started a few months ago to build it. When asking, we learned that this camp already exists for 3 years! Well, they are not the fastest around here, but the service was excellent, we got offered a vegetarian meal without asking for it!!

August 22. 2006 Tour to Lilongwe
After a stormy breakfast we started today the last kilometres till Lilongwe. Lilongwe is the capital from Malawi and very and clearly arranged. That means small and no spectacular sightseeing. The leg to Lilongwe, too, was not that exciting either - everything is rather dry and monochrome. In Lilongwe we pitched up our tent in the Kiboko Camp and we were almost finished, when a Mitsubishi Pajero drove into the campsite. Curiously we looked across to the car, and a little bit later it turned out to be Beate and Rüdiger, who are on the road with their car “Erwin” since last October. In the west they drove till Senegal and crossed the southern part of Africa. So we had enough subjects to talk about, which, including some backbiting, would last for the next few days. This evening it again became rather cold and during the first night we froze like hell.

23. - 25.8.2006 Few days in Lilongwe
We almost did not do anything. The town does not have many things to be visited, so that we could hold off “sightseeing-technically”. Every day we had a good night´s rest then a lekker breakfast (we again afforded ourselves cheese) and chatting with Beate and Rüdiger till far into the afternoon. Then we entered the internet for a couple of hours, writing e-mails and updating our web page with pictures and the report about Tanzania. The big supermarket was also frequented quite often. Among other things we had a delicious German meal: Brussels sprouts and potatoes with pepper sauce! Hmhm - it was quite expensive, but was super! The evenings as well we spent chatting with the two Germans and for our habits we got to bed quite late.

26. - 27.8.2006 Back at the lake side
On August 26th we finally could pull ourselves together to pack our things and drive back towards Lake Malawi. The route led from Lilongwe passing Salima to Monkey Bay and from there into the Cape Mclear National park. As we already knew the route till Salima this section became quite boring, there after it became more diversified. Some Baobabs were standing on the roadside and pretty soon we hit a good piste. Everything became greener and hilly. Arrived at the Cape we directly drove to the Fat Monkey Camp, situated next and nicely at a lake. The sun was already low and soon we could enjoy a beautiful sunset and a “Kuche Kuche” (a local beer). Beate and Rüdiger as well planned to come here and again “happy chatting was announced”. Unfortunately it was quite windy during the night and we did not have a too good a sleep.
The next day we stayed where we were and lased around. Here as well we did not dare to take a bath in the lake - because of the danger of Bilharziose. But eventually we already caught the disease as the water of the lake is used for washing, showers etc. We will see.

August 28. - September 03rd 2006 Going South
On the 26th some more kilometres were programmed. From Cape Mclear we drove via Mangochi to Liwonde. Actually we had planned to stop at the national park. As we were not allowed to enter the park with a bike we decided to “jet” further to Zomba. It again led us up into the mountains, through wonderful landscapes on twisty roads. We even crossed pinewoods and the air we breezed was wonderful! During the afternoon sunshine we got to the Zomba-plateau, which itself again is on high altitude. The town, too, gave a nice green impression. We drove to a camping area in the middle of a forest, really nicely located! The access road was more like a field path and crossed a wonderful forest. Sadly the fee for the campground was an impertinence, almost twice as much of what we paid for all the other campgrounds. We bargained a little bit, but it still was too much. Pretty fast it became dark and cold and about 7 pm we retracted into our tent. We did not get really warm enough all night long. The next morning we stayed in the tent till the sun reached our tent. No, it was not 12:00 noon, but 7:30am.
This day we drove the relatively short distance till Blantyre. What ever caused it, we do not know, but this day we were fed up with almost everything. Eventually we are tired travelling around!?! During the evening fortunately we met 2 Swiss people, Claudia and André, who drove the complete west of Africa. Again there was a lot to talk about. Furthermore they just came from Mozambique and meant the main route is quite boring. Thus, our short consideration, also to visit this country was lapsed. Because with our recent experiences we had enough from boring landscapes.
The 30th of august we stayed in Blantyre. To bad that this town is rather ugly and there is nothing to have a look at. On the 31st we set off for the tea region of this country and looked forward to more green. To bad the weather did not play along. When we started, thick clouds were hanging into the town, it was drizzling and you had not more than 20 m sight ahead… In addition it really was cold, so that we had to put on our long sweaters and internal lining for the gear. We indeed passed a beautiful area with many tea fields, but the light was not to good to take photographs. Thus we drove as quickly as possible till Mulanje, where the highest mountain of Malawi, 3000 m, is “supposed to be“; to bad we did not see it at all. As we were chilled to the bone and under those weather conditions did not feel like tenting, we afforded a room in a lodge with breakfast. Hmhm .... Real beds! During this afternoon we did not do anything else but hoping on better weather the next day. The 1st of September - how fast time flies!! “weather technically” we, too, were not disappointed, the sun was laughing from the sky and a slight wind was blowing and we had a partly free view on the mountain! We grabbed the chance and pulled out to view the area under beautiful light conditions. Immediately everything looked different. The tea plantations glared with intensive green, the sky was deep-blue and the piste was beautiful red. That was a benefit for the eyes! We also decided to make a three hours walking-tour to a cataract. The ascent was quite exhausting, but we were rewarded with an ice-cold bath for our feet and a grand view. This again was a very nice day!
On September 2nd we drove back to Blantyre through the lovely area with the tea-plantations, spent another night there before we returned to Lilongwe on September 3rd. The section from Blantyre via Dedza to Lilongwe turned out to be quite interesting, many mountains and wide views into the surrounding area. We passed some nice villages, in some of them youngsters offered us speared mice - we were curious who buyes those mice and maybe eat them?? But we could not take a photo…
In Lilongwe we are on the same campground as last time, but this time we are the only “self-driving” tourists. The next few days we are spending here and waiting for Ineke and Victor - the only two, really visiting us in Africa!

04. - 08.9.2006 Back again in Lilongwe
Well, even those days fly by. We again should give our laundry a special and exhaustive treatment. The “Cow” received a sip of oil and some careful strokes. The internet somehow took a lot of time, but it did not work out as planned. Quite often we were shopping… Thus nothing really thrilling.
Except today, September 06th. Then once more we made a visit to PLAN International. It was great, the best meeting we ever had! We already were expected by Herbert in the “country agency”; we were introduced to all team members and then we drove in a PLAN-car to the Lilongwe project bureau. There we met the Project Unit Manager, who gave us a detailed survey of the projects within this region. Even a written agenda about our visit was handed out to us. Then we drove with Herbert and two other fellows to a project in the field. Here we were introduced to a watering project, which allows a second harvest a year: a peasant even held a short lecture about her work! The climate allows a second harvest, i.e. in the local “winter”. You only have to water the seed and the plants and can not rely on the rain. But there are enough rivers and with them water. This peasant already does this work for several years and is a good example for other farmers. Some accept it, other think, it is to much work for them. Government will help them over the months, where the self-produced corn is not sufficient… In addition this peasant keeps chickens, fertilises her fields with their dung, sells chickens and eggs etc. Everything works out so well, that she can afford, to send one of her children to visit a school in South Africa! We were very impressed! Further on we learned from Herbert, how PLAN in general is giving support in Malawi. The communities and/or individual persons have to come to PLAN and ask for help or support respectively. They have to show a concept, what they intend to do and how they think to realise it and they themselves can contribute. Thus people are involved and share what is happening. Here, too, PLAN very much convinced us with their meaningfulness of their actions.
On September 07th , with a delay of 3 weeks, Ineke and Viktor arrived. We met them at the airport and did not do much for the rest of the day. We got “Swiss Schoki” for present which we enjoyed right away! Hmhm! On September 08th we showed them the nice town, were looking for an Asian and/or Indian quarter. There was none of them. Then we strolled over the marketplace, which on the other hand is not really so picturesque. In exchange we afforded a delicious supper in the evening in an Indian restaurant, which we had found during the afternoon as the only Indian store in town. We suppose, Ineke and Viktor, too, not really were enthusiastic about Lilongwe.

09. - 11.9.2006 Some Days Together with our Friends
On Saturday we started from Lilongwe going north, we on the “Cow”, Ineke and Viktor in a rented car. We drove a section, we did not know either, via Kasungu to Mzuzu. Halfway we made a stop and accommodated in Luwawa Forest Lodge. Here we really found the promised forest, we were missing all along the route. The air was good and the area invited for a walk. We wanted to use this opportunity and stayed here even on Sunday (Sept.10th). In the morning we started to walk the “original forest loop track”. The two dogs of the lodge escorted us. This small walk did good, the bones got moved and the backside got a relief. During the afternoon we enjoyed sitting in the sun, chatting and afforded an afternoon tea and coffee. A wonderful day! On Monday we drove via Mzuzu to Rumphi. Actually we wanted to drive into the Vwasa Marsh National park and to spend here the last evening with each other. But the access road to the national park was too “rural” for the tires of the rented car (a normal passenger car). I.e. too stony, with deep tracks and washouts. We all did not want dare to scrap the rented car and turned back. Thus we said goodbye earlier than thought, and the two drove to the lake. We returned to Mzuzu, where we stayed overnight in a simple motel.
We were totally pleased, that Ineke and Viktor visited us here - many thanks to both of you! We hope you could fully enjoy the remaining days in Malawi.

12. - 14.9.2006 The last Days in Malawi
We actually wanted to take a different route to Zambia, it should be a junction about 130 km behind Mzuzu. Unfortunately we did not find this intersection and drove back the complete section to Lilongwe. This time we stayed in our tent on the area of the golf club and today (13th) again rested an additional day. The internet is crying for action; we updated our webpage for you, and tomorrow we will leave Malawi after a stay of four weeks. We ride towards Zambia, where we look forward to hopefully new adventures with animals and beautiful scenic impressions.

FAZIT MALAWI
RITA: You should not go here during dry season. You will miss the green and everything looks monotonously. The lake is nice, the south beautiful with its tea plantations. But sorry to say I found the country rather boring. Obviously I am somehow tired of travelling.

Chri: A lot of people told me, that Malawi is a great country and they envy me for that visit. Sadly enough I cannot confirm this. I found it (except for the south) relatively boring. The reason may be that we now had the end of the dry season and the fields were burned down. People normally are friendly. Some people however wanted to screw us. That did not suit me personally.


 

Pictures - go to the link at the mainpage